


This page is not at all related to the overall theme of this website in any way shape or form. I simply wanted to add information about Ball Pythons somewhere on this website. I think that they are wonderful pets. The pet trade is absoluely full of ball pythons. They are an overproduced animal. Just look up how many there are on morph market ((https://www.morphmarket.com/us/c/reptiles/pythons/ball-pythons?ordering=-price)).
I, myself have two ball pythons. One is called Motorbike, and the other is called Vespa Scooter. They are wonderful beautiful animals and very well-behaved pets. They enjoy exploring. Whenever I have to go into a CVS Pharmacy, I bring along Motorbike. That snake has been to the following other locations: Every apartment/house that I have lived in the past several years, a college campus, inside various bags, probably some other event that I forgot.
Scoots has been to less locations and does not yet know the wonders of CVS. One day, perhaps he will.
Not sponsered by CVS btw. I hate CVS. It is overpriced as all fuck because sometimes it is the only place that is open.
AnyWAys.
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Ball pythons are incredibly docile pets. They are infamously known as "pet rocks" (though the primary reason for this is that these snakes are commonly forced into improperly tiny housing, resulting in shorter and more boring lives for the little creatures). While snakes are generally thought of as nothing more than a set of teeth, the instinct for a ball python is to curl up into a ball and/or crawl away from whatever is stressing it out or scaring it.
Look, I've been meaning to work on this for a long time. I really like these snakes and there is so much information about them.
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Though it is commonly advised, the practice of removing an animal from its enclosure to feed it is outdated. This is more likely to result in stressing the animal out, leading to refusal to eat or the snake getting stressed out.
It is best to use 2 foot long feeding tongs to hold the prey item (a previously frozen and recently thawed and maybe heated up rat - if your ball python is picky - probably unless you have a super duper picky python that ate an african soft furred rat and will now no longer eat anything else). Ball pythons, like most snakes, have holes in their face known as "heat pits" that allow them to detect heat. While most ball pythons are not blind, they do have weak eyesight and flick their tongues out to smell things.
Basically, if the snake detects that your hand is warm and smells like a rat (as in, if you were attempting to hand feed the snake a rat) and is warmer than the rat (because you are alive and the rat is not) then there is a chance of getting bit. This is the most common way that human beings will get bit by ball pythons. That and if they attempt to handle the snake after touching a rat (or other rodent) shortly prior to attempting to handle the snake and without washing hands with soap and water.
This does not necessarily also apply to prey animals. If you are touching a pet rabbit, mouse, guinea pig, or other small furry creature - and then you think to yourself "hmmm. I want to go handle a ball python" you should think about changing your clothes and/or washing your hands prior to interacting with the snake. Rabbits are considered a delicacy for a reason. If you reach in to grab a snake with hands that smell like rabbit, that domesticated serpent is going to strike first and ask questions later.
Otherwise, it is virtually unheard of for ball pythons to bite humans. Just use some common sense around feeding time. Also do not handle a ball python for at least 24-48 hours after they last ate. There is a risk of regurgitation (aka getting vomited on by a snake). They often like to hide when eating.
Be warned! While these snakes are generally known for being slow and lazy, they strike extremely fast when it is feeding time. Sometimes, they will miss a few times (particuarily juveniles). In their defense, ball pythons don't really get a lot of time to practice, seeing as how they can go several weeks or months without eating at a time!
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Put the ball python at around 50-70% humidity. To maintain this, the best enclosure type is a 4x2x2 (minimum) PVC enclosure with some kind of mixture of moss and dirt. Eco earth works great. If you want to spoil your pet, add additional moss, isopods, and plants. Choosing durable plants is a good idea because these snakes are clumsy and will attempt to climb things when given the oppourtunity to do so.
There should be a hot spot of around 80-90 degrees Farenheit. Different snakes will have different personal preferences for temperature. If your snake is consistently remaining on one side of an enclosure for an extended period of time, this can sometimes be an indicator that they do not like the temperature of the other side of the enclosure. If your snake consistently goes back and forth between either side of the enclosure (over time, you will learn its schedule) then this is a sign of proper temperature regulation.
If you have the space, allowing your snake to explore outside of the enclosure provides great enrichment. Show the snake various things around your house, crawl on your bed, or check out furniture. Be warned! They will try to go towards heat sources such as heaters or various appliances (such as fridges or microwaves). They like to hide in small places and are prone to getting caught up in various spinny chairs, office chairs, or holes.
If there is a hole that is big enough for your snake to get its head stuck in, it will happen. They do not understand that their bodies are fatter than their heads. They will get tangled in things.
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